Russell Brice leads expeditions for his company, Himalayan Experience, An uncompromising leader, he has 25 years of experience on Everest. and oversees every aspect of his expeditions.

This will be his 18th year on Everest. Nobody knows the mountain's risks better than Brice. "Eighty percent of my friends are dead," he says. On Day One of last year's expedition, he learned of the death of one of his Sherpa team, news that reduced him to tears.

Controversy surrounds the "King of the Mountain," never more than after 2006, the second deadliest season on record. To add to the tension, in the 2007 season Russell opted not to organize the fixed ropes to the summit. But if he doesn't do it, who will?

This may be Russell's last year on Everest – he's sick and tired of his fight with the mountain. The pressure is immense when you feel you're sending climbers into hell just to drag them out again, gambling with their lives.

This year Russell has a surprise for his climbers – a cosy lounge at Base Camp, complete with rugs, couches and other luxuries.

Russell discusses the risks he will face during the 2007 season